Weight of ‘binding’ fabric. The heavier the fabric of either the binding AND/OR the garment fabric, the more likely that a single layer BIAS binding is preferable so that un-needed bulk is not created. I generally cal this a ‘Wrapped Edge’ as I developed for finishing edges on my sweatshirt jackets since bulk was obviously already present in the weight of the sweatshirt edge. Therefore for simple reference, I will define a single layer bias ‘binding’ in this tutorial as a ‘Wrapped Edge’.
When bulk is NOT an issue, a bias binding that starts as a doubled layer presents one with a simple, already-finished edge to secure to the garment – either on the inside OR the outside of the garment. For reference, this edge will be defined as a ‘French Binding.’
2. Stitching visibility: Which do you desire:
* To SEE stitching on the outside of the garment – in which case I think it is best to stitch the RIGHT side of the binding to the WRONG side of the garment
* To NOT SEE stitching on the outside of the garment – accomplishing the ‘finish’ with hand-stitching the folded edge on the inside of the garment. In this case, you stitch the RIGHT side of the bias binding to the RIGHT side of the garment.
REGARDLESS – the original garment CUT edge is the FINISHED size of the garment. The first ‘seam allowance’ is the width of the visible ‘binding’.
Find below a summary with photos of finishing techniques from which to select according to the above considerations. Excuse my ‘well-loved’ cutting mat in the photos.
SINGLE LAYER BIAS WRAPPED EDGES
Wrapped – to the outside, raw edge showing:
With a single layer bias strip, stitch right side of bias to WRONG side of the garment. Press the bias out, away from the garment. Then press it tightly around the edge to the front. Stitch in the ditch from the inside or stitch where you desire on the outside. On my sweatshirt jackets, I was often then embellishing with ‘Fabric Fur’ – layers of bias and/or couched yarn (couched yarn as seen on the sample). The raw, unfinished bias edge will ‘fur’ up which is part of the ‘raw’ look. You either accept/like that look, or you don’t. See the pictures below.
With a single layer bias strip, stitch right side of bias to WRONG side of the garment. Press the bias out, away from the garment. Then press it tightly around the edge to the front. Press under the raw edge. Press, forming the bias to the right shape. Stitch close to the edge, either by machine or by hand with a slipstitch. See the pictures below.